The journey on Brompton bikes in Galicia has started the 17th of August in Barcelona. We took the train direction to Lugo, 14 hours in butaca comport.
The first night was like in Almodovar´s movie, people talkiing about Franco, politicians, immigrants stealing the jobs from the Spaniards..they were making noise all the night long: “deep Spain”:)
Finally we arrived to Lugo and we started the sightseeing by the Catherdral
and the wall sourrrunding the city…amazing views, people joging…we cycled around the city too!
The difficult part has started when we left Lugo direction to Ligonde (aprox 30 km) to the hostel La fuente del peregrino. It took us more than 2 hours with all the climbs. When we arrived we met there Mariano who explained us how they welcomed the pilgrims and he offered us a limonade with fresh mint leaves. Unfortunetly it was full and we had to continue to the next village: Portos where we found another great hostel: A paso de una formiga, totally to be recommended! The owners were Catalans as Jesus (local) explained us.
Jesus showed us also the romanic church nearby from the 8th century and we were abe to understand the different influences during the last 13 centuries: muslims, jewish, celts, christians..
When we got back to the hostel in the evening we found a surprise “concert” in our bedroom. As we had to share it with one man who snored all night!our first night of this long experience in the pilgrim´s hostels..
Day 2 we woke up by the heavy rain…after the breakfast we decided to continue with our shoes and leather bags covered by waterproof bags.
That was the longest day ever!We did more than 60km until Pedrouzo (we pasted by Melide and Arzúa). On the way we saw a factory of leather!you will see it in the new collection!!
The last kilometers were very hard, we had to stop once to eat some Ovomaltine sticks and to take coffee bombon in the nicest place ever in A Rua. Afterwards, te tried to find a place in a hostel El Chalet in A Brea but it was also full:(
We didn´t realise how important it was to book the place before. Finally, we arrived to Pedrouzo and thanks to God we found two places in REM hostel. The same day we participated in a pilgrim´s mass led by 3 priests: one from India, one from Nigeria and one from Poland..very interesting:)
That was the first night that we tried the famous octopus!
We thought that everything would be perfect this time but unfortunetly the flies didn´t let us sleep all night:)maybe next night will be better!
Day 3: our last day, today we finish in Santiago de Compostela, 120km in total.
We started the day by forgeting our food in the fridge of the hostel so we had to go back; we were already couple of kilometers away..but we didn´t lose the positive attitude! we continued until we got the the roundabout and we confused the way and entered to the way prohibited for bikes!ups!we had to go back again..another half an hour and our strengh lost!:)
After 3 hours in total we arrived to a beautifull hostel Monasterio menor (totally recommended!). We entered and they still had 2 places!unfortunetly we were not the first in the queue!two Polish guys were first!they even offered to give us the bads and they would sleep on the floor but it wasn´t allowed. We had to leave and look for another place to sleep!
The only place we found was in the worst hostel in the world: Albergue Monterrey. We were happy to hear that our room was only for two people! what we didn´t know is that the room was next to the bathroom and the kitchen.
Luckly we found a great place to had lunch: we had another octopus!
After a short nap we went to the old town to ask for Compostela certificate but unfortunetly we didn´t get it as the minimum of kilometers required was 200km. The Colombian voluntary was sad for not being able to give it to us. We continued than our sight seeing in Santiago and sat for a while to listen to the concert in the Jazz festival of Santiago. The evening finished with a dinner in a great Galician place: Casa de Manolo!Highly recommended!
Day 4, we checked that the way to Pontevedra is not very interesting and full of rises and slopes on the road. We decided to take a train to get there and than continue 30 km by bikes until La Toja next to O Grove.
We didn´t know that Tour de España had place on the same roads that we were going.
On the way to Sanxenxo we stopped in Area and had a great lunch: zamburiñas and mussels. The road is not prepared for the ciclists!We were a little bit afraid of all the cars passing by very quickly!
After lunch we continued up the mountain, direction La Toxa. We recommend you to stop for couple of hours in a beautifull beach: A Lanzada just before O Grove.
That night was the first night in a real hotel and not the pilgrim´s hostel. We were a bit tired after not sleeping 1 night in the train and 3 nights in the hostels:)Louxo hotel was a great choice on La Toja island!
Great views from the window, fantastic Talaso center and delicious dinner with sea food!And finally we could sleep all night without any noise!We slept untill 11h, we had great breakfast and off we go to Cangas!
We didn´t want to repeat the same road so we took the bus from O Grove until Pontevedra and there we continued by bikes again!30 km to Cangas de Morrazo!You may think that 30km is nothing but if you see those inclines!
Near the bridge of Pontevendra we realised that the cycle lane has finished and we entered to the highway without knowing it!We had to go back very quickly and this time we found a bicycle path next to the sea.
We passed by Morin where took place the 3rd part of Tour de Espagne, we continued until Aguete where we had some rest in a chiringuito.
We continued to Bueu and there we confused again the way and we took the road to Cangas with no cycle path. Fortunetly when we arrived to Moaña our friend picked us up and our adventure changed into “relief holidays”.
Those 3 days in Cangas were the best ever!With very generous people and great sea food! This part of Galicia is like a paradise! You should try the places like: El Porron: the best food ever!Area Coba, the chiringuito in Ria del Aldán. We tried also Albariño and Ribeiro: the best vines from Galicia.
Last night we experienced a great storm with lightnings but no rain drops!Last day before we left we had the opportunity to see the purification plant and the bigest factory of canned seafood: Masso.
We didn´t have much time as we had to take the ferry at 16h30; our train was leaving from Vigo at 17h55. This time were luckly and the people were very respectful. After 15 hours we were bak in Barcelona!
Home sweet home!